Refined vs Unrefined Shea - Test Batch 1

Here's the first test batch in the refined vs unrefined shea comparison test. You really have to look closely to see the difference - both are airy, light and even smell almost identical.

Making this first test batch was enlightening.

True to its reputation, the shea threw me an unexpected loop.


I usually make whipped shea according to this method, but wanted to see how the unrefined shea behaved when heated, so this first batch was made differently.

Basic Formula

The basic formula for a whipped shea body balm/butter is pretty straightforward

• 80 % shea
• 20 % oil

I used 10% fractionated coconut oil and 10% jojoba with both butters.


As I also wanted to add scent, my formula for this batch was

• 80 % shea
• 19 % oil
• 1 % essential oil

Method

The butters were allowed to reach room temperature, weighed up and added to separate beakers with the oil.

Both were placed directly on the heat source and melted slowly over low heat. When I say slowly, I mean snails pace. The heat is set to the absolute lowest and the mixture is monitored constantly. I also have a habit of testing the temperature by regularly placing the beaker on my palm. The melting process usually takes 5-10 minutes.

Here's how I melt 'in stereo' (this pic is from a completely different session and product, but you can get an idea..)

Surprise!

While the unrefined shea behaved beautifully during the melting process, the refined shea went completely grainy as it was melting.

That's a first for me. I've only seen shea go grainy after it has been heated/melted and incorporated into a product.

A possible reason: perhaps the refined shea experienced some degree of heating and cooling during packaging and transport.

Other than the little extra surprise, both butters melted at the same speed and both reached liquid state at the same time.

Cool and Whip

The melted mixtures were placed in the refrigerator to cool to 15º C, then both whipped until the desired texture was achieved.

I didn't time the whipping, but it was my impression that both butters achieved the desired texture within approximately the same time.

Side note on whipping butters: It is possible to introduce extra 'lightness' and airiness to a whipped butter by alternating the whipping and cooling process repeatedly as the mixture cools. It's also quite a bit more work.

The Scent

1% essential oil was added to both just before whipping. I wanted to see if I could create a blend that would successfully mask the heavy, cocoa-buttery scent of the unrefined shea.

Here's the combination I used

• 4 drops frankincense
• 2 drops cedarwood
• 2 drops petitgrain
• 5 drops blood orange
• 6 drops clementine
• 8 drops grapefruit

It almost worked too. The natural scent unrefined shea was still slightly detectible, but an extra 4 drops of frankincense seemed to do the trick.

Time will tell if this blend of essential oils has the necessary staying power.

Coming Up

Next time, we'll look at how these whipped butters compare with use.

Do Tell

How do you mask/work with the scent of unrefined shea?