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How To: Mixing Pigments to Match Skin Tone



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María said…
OMG, if I dare to say, "great minds think alike", as I have to remake my makeup.
I have read quite frequently that for cooler skin tones it's good to add a tiny amount of blue (and even green), to cool the colour. But it's so much fun...
April 10, 2016 at 10:03 AM
LisaLise said…
HI María- you may indeed say great minds think alike :)
You're right about adding a titch of blue for 'shadowing' effects - but we'll get into that bit in upcoming posts :)
April 10, 2016 at 5:45 PM
Bob & Angela said…
Hi Lise - When I did this professionally, I used black iron oxide, blueish-red iron oxide, yellowish-red iron oxide, and yellow iron oxide, together with titanium dioxide and talc, mica or sericite as a blending aid. Why not any brown? Because brown is always a mixture, never a pure oxide - and mixtures don't always come out the same way every time from the suppliers.

Using a blending aid really cuts down on the blending time needed to make a uniform mixture - otherwise, untreated titanium dioxide is so "sticky" that blends take twice as long.
April 10, 2016 at 9:00 PM
LisaLise said…
Hi Bob -- you are so right about brown being a mix, and you're correct also - it is a little different from supplier to supplier. As I have always made color cosmetics for personal use only, it has been easiest (and most economical) for me to work with fewer pigments.

Your described color combo sounds just like what one uses to blend skin color with oil paints - that's the pro way of doing it to be sure! :)

April 10, 2016 at 9:38 PM
Olivia J said…
You are right about the relaxing part of mixing pigments, something fascinating about watching the primary colors mix into a skin tone.

I just have a question though. Instead of using just titanium dioxide as a whitening (lightening) product, is it possible to use something like an Extender W (mica/titanium dioxide mix)? I am asking because I have a bag of this product and not quite sure if it is more of bulking agent, binding agent, or lightening agent.
April 16, 2016 at 5:20 AM
LisaLise said…
Hi Olivia - You could use a blend of mica and titanium dioxide, but this is going to 'dilute' the color mix. The purpose of creating a pigment mix is so you have the correct color. The pigment mixture is then mixed with extenders/base-powders of different types to make the final product (pressed eye shadow powder, foundation etc etc). On the other hand-- if you are looking for a sheerer color, it might be just the ticket. It might be worth doing 2 batches of color side by side and comparing to see how they work for you.
April 16, 2016 at 4:35 PM
Olivia J said…
Lise,

Thank you for answering my question. I get it now why it is called an Extender. Little by little I learn especially from you!
April 16, 2016 at 11:04 PM
LisaLise said…
Hi Olivia - my pleasure :)
April 17, 2016 at 2:12 PM
Jo said…
Hi Lise, I am simmering some soapnuts as I type this out on my phone.... I have never been happy with foundation colours that are available to me. The closest match has been via bare minerals but not in the money as it were.

I need something and a quick look on your blog and your whizzing up your own palette of colours! Now I do not know what to do with most but I would love to tweek my own foundation.... but where do you buy your oxides from? I've tried a quick smart phone search and I'm not getting what you've shown.

Also, just a musing. I have dark skin and SS with titanium dioxide tends to lend a blue-ish white cast to my face, whereas zinc oxide is just a white cast. Good enough reason to use zinc oxide?

Thank you in advance.

Jo x
November 13, 2016 at 7:48 PM
LisaLise said…
Hey there Jo - Yes, you can use zinc oxide instead of T-dioxide if you like. You could also do a combo of both - see what works best for you. I buy my oxides from a local supplier in Denmark (Urtegaarden).
November 14, 2016 at 11:23 AM
LisaLise said…
PS. What are you going to use the soapnut decoction for? :D
November 14, 2016 at 11:23 AM
Jo said…
Thank you for your reply! I am going to have to research a little more for oxides closer to home in the UK.

I used the soapnut decoction for washing my hair! I have been having a sensitivity to shampoos this past year, which has been confusing, no matter the surfactant. So I thought I'd give soapnuts a try. I used it today, and wasn't especially impressed, although it left my hair, I have locs, softer. If my skin doesn't react to it will make a stronger solution next time and leave it to soak in for a little while. 😕
November 14, 2016 at 10:13 PM
LisaLise said…
Hi Jo -- you might want to give rhassoul a try for your hair -- there are a few posts on how to wash hair with rhassoul on the blog
November 14, 2016 at 11:45 PM
Jo said…
Yes I will look those posts up... although the 1st day post soapnuts and no reaction on my skin. And no itchy scalp.... so a possibility. However I need to find a preservative that doesn't freak my skin out, for when I travel. Hmmm. Rhassoul looks even better!
November 15, 2016 at 11:03 PM
LisaLise said…
Rhassoul is perfect to travel with - you add water just before you use it. Let me know what you think :)
November 15, 2016 at 11:23 PM
Abygale said…
Hi Lisa! Love your blog; so very helpful!! I love this blog on matching skin tones. I'm learning how to do this. I have many oxides, pigments & micas in my collection, however, I cannot find a "sienna oxide" anywhere in my U.S. Suppliers. It looks on the computer that the color is a reddish-brown with a slight yellow undertone. Is that correct? I know colors may not be exact on the computer due to lighting. Would you have any ideas for a substitute that would be close to your "sienna" or your supplier of it? Thanks so much.
March 6, 2017 at 4:39 PM
LisaLise said…
HI Abygale - thanks for your kind comment! I had a look at my (locally bought Danish package), and am thinking this name difference could be a bit of a language thing. I keep thinking a red oxide might work here.. it is a very terra cotta-like, deep, brick-red color. Your description is pretty close actually. The yellow undertone is very very subtle. Hope this helps!
March 6, 2017 at 4:46 PM
Abygale said…
Hey Lisa! Thank you so much, that is very helpful! Infact, I may already have that shade in my collection. Now onto blending! Here I go doing my "happy dance" as I blend! :)
March 8, 2017 at 3:22 PM
LisaLise said…
yay Abygale! I hope you achieve perfection on your first try!
March 8, 2017 at 3:27 PM
John said…
Hi Lisa, my gf is Caucasian and have fair skin so she use the self tanning lotion which contain Dihydroxyacetone as the main ingredient. I however have darker skin so I was wondering if there is a particular ingredients that the self taning company could add to replace the Dihydroxyacetone so I could use to apply into my skin to make it lighter instantly like the self tanner? I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you, John Nguyen
November 22, 2018 at 2:37 AM
LisaLise said…
Hi John, Thanks for your question. I think you would be looking for a make-up type product if you want an instant effect. There is no chemical for skin lightening that I know of that provides an instant effect and is at the same time safe to use. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
November 23, 2018 at 1:38 PM
Tamid514 said…
Thank you so much for this blog. I am light skin cool complected and I’ve always had a hard time finding foundation. My undertone is blue and I used prescriptive’s because they do color matching but I really want to stay natural so want to learn how to make my own make up. finding information on color matching especially for cooler tone skin is so hard. so thankful I found you
September 11, 2020 at 3:22 PM
LisaLise said…
Thank you kindly Tamid514 ! I hope you have success making your own :)
September 14, 2020 at 3:28 PM
TAMI D said…
I have made many batches of mineral foundation through lots of experimenting...I really appreciate your blog and great info to get me started. My question is this. I have seen several mineral foundations on the market that include Ultramarines and manganese. Have you ever worked with these in mineral foundation? I have also found Terry Tomlinson’s skin tone color wheel which I am now using to help further match my skin undertone. Again thanks for all you’ve done and helping me get started
December 31, 2020 at 3:51 PM
LisaLise said…
Hi Tami - Thanks for your great comment. Ultramarines and manganese colors are to be found in the basic color palette. Any color can be made by combing blue, red, and yellow (with the addition of black and white). (try it with colored pencils, crayons, or watercolors). My own foundation mix here is 'cheating' a little because I am using a brown oxide. It makes for less mixing on my part and if you are making small amounts, saves time. Enjoy your cosmetic making journey!
January 2, 2021 at 1:58 PM
Unknown said…
Hii ma'am
I from India 🇮🇳
I can put for liquid foundation
Red iron oxide & yellow iron oxide
Black iron oxide for shades making pls tell? &



how much gram put all thinks you tell?
January 12, 2022 at 2:56 PM
LisaLise said…
Hello Unknown in India -- these colours should be ok to use-- as to amounts.. it is hard to say when I don't know how big a batch you are making. Use very very little black to begin with. Best of luck with it!
January 13, 2022 at 4:08 PM
Anonymous said…
Can I add it to my home made facial lotion and make it a cream foundation?
January 5, 2025 at 11:17 PM
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