Water-Dispersable Oil - No Kidding
This just sounds all wrong – water-dispersable sweet almond oil. Excuse me? Oil doesn't dissolve in water! Anyone who ever tried mixing a plain oil and vinegar dressing knows this – the oil beads up, swirls around, then floats to the top and sits there, glistening defiantly.
Unless...
There is an ingredient that can be added to transform oil into a water dispersable substance. The cool part is, it doesn't change the look, smell, feel or behavior of the oil – until you add water and see it rinse away as a milky-white liquid (leaving no oily residue). And if you've been reading this blog for a while, you aren't even a complete stranger to what this ingredient is.
If you apply a solution with 10% polysorbate directly on the upper arm of 15 healthy people, keep the area under a bandage (reapplying every day for 4 days), 11 of the 15 people will show minor skin irritation after 4 days. (Read the Effect of Polysorbate 85 on Human Skin here).
For the water-dispersable sweet almond oil I am using, the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) describes the proportions as > 70% oil and < 30% polysorbate 85.
Unless...
Ta Daa! Meet Polysorbate 85
There are numerous non-ionic surfactants, but polysorbate 85 is the star of todays show. (one of these days I am going to apply for a job as an ingredients-namer. Why are they always so boring and unimaginative? Manufacturers seriously need some inspiration and fresh input).To Refresh Your Memory...
Non-ionic surfactants are useful as emulsifiers. Adding one to a soapy-lathery formula will give the mixture body and keep everything from separating. Non-ionic surfactants are called non-ionic because they are neutral (neither positively nor negatively charged). I know you already knew all this from this earlier posting, but I thought I'd just refresh your memory.With a Name Like That, it Might Be Bad For You
I realize the name sounds very chemical-like and a bit scary, but polysorbate 85 has undergone testing and you really have to work at it to make this ingredient cause a reaction.If you apply a solution with 10% polysorbate directly on the upper arm of 15 healthy people, keep the area under a bandage (reapplying every day for 4 days), 11 of the 15 people will show minor skin irritation after 4 days. (Read the Effect of Polysorbate 85 on Human Skin here).
For the water-dispersable sweet almond oil I am using, the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) describes the proportions as > 70% oil and < 30% polysorbate 85.
Am I worried? No, and Here's Why:
- Because this oil is being used as a wash-off ingredient (in a body scrub)
- Because I have used it for a few years (on my sensitive skin) with absolutely no reaction of any kind
- I source this oil from a highly reputable supplier that I have dealt with for years – and they recommend using it undiluted as a massage oil base
Comments
Kh Rikke
Thank you so very much (even if this is an older post). I almost started pulling my hair out trying to find this info.
What a gem you are! :)
Gabrielle
Thank you sooooo much for your very kind words! I know exactly what you mean about trying to find out something specific and hitting a brick wall wherever you look. There are some ingredients I have been researching for years and still have had such limited luck with that I'm not able to blog about them - yet! That, however, doesn't stop me from my search! :)
Could you let me know the exact ingredients of the product that has been causing this issue? (An ingredients list would be great, but you could also just take a pic of the ingredients list and mail it to me - my email is on the sidebar).
There are several surfactants used for this purpose. I'd like to see if we can't get to the bottom of this!
For a rinsed product, OK, but what about a leave-on product as a toner, a serum, a gel...?
The scents of hydrosols are absolutely divine and you are getting all the water-solubles from the plants. Have you ever tried them?
Do you have any other idea?
First of all, sorry for the mistakes I have already seen in my previous posts, it seems the corrector on my mobile was playing jokes (LOL).
Well, concerning the vinegar-base products, yes, I've heard about them in some French blogs. Despite this idea to make extracts to use in creams is fine, i don't think it could work if you want to make a non-alcoholic eau de cologne due to the vinegar smell itself, that would be very strong (I'm thinking for example about the 4 thieves vinegar, in French "Vinaigre des 4 voleurs").
I was thinking about it to make cologne for my new born twins nephew and niece, but my sister could be very special for smells, so I think I have to leave this idea apart. But I think PS 20 or 80 could be a goo idea to make, for example, a "pillow mist" ("brume d'oreiller"): a mix of calming EOs as lavender, sweet orange, neroli, etc to spray on baby's pillow before it goes to sleep. The fragrance impregnated in the pillow fabric would help them to have a good sleep. I've tried something like that (without solubilizer, just shaking) using orange blossom flower hydrosol with a few drops of lavender and sweet orange for a friend of mine when she gave birth and she told me it seemed to work.
OMG, what a long post! Please excuse me, sometimes I don't realize people have their own life to live instead reading my über-long messages (LOL).
Cheers! :)
My best suggestion would then be to work entirely with hydrosols. You can make the most gorgeous and subtle blends and scents with them. Check under topics for hydrosols - I did a series about blending them and and how they work together - you might find it useful :)
Thank you for all the time you take to read and answer all comment that us, poor hobby DIYers, send you periodically. They are really helpful for us :D